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Deodorant may be designed to stop odors, but the sight of it can be less than pleasant. Here’s how you can get rid of those embarrassing deodorant stains

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Acetate, Burlap, Carpet/Synthetic, Carpet/Wool, Cotton, Fiberglass, Linen, Rayon, Silk, Triacetate, Wool

Apply rubbing alcohol to the stain and cover with an absorbent pad dampened with alcohol (dilute alcohol with 2 parts water for acetate, Rayon, and triacetate; test silk for colorfastness before using alcohol). Keep both moist. Allow to stand as long as any stain is being removed. If the stain remains (and as a last resort), flush (the method of applying stain remover to loosen staining materials and residue from stain removers) with a solution of warm sudsy water with a little ammonia added (use special care on silk and wool). Rinse with clear water. Apply a solution of warm water with a little white vinegar added, taking special care with this solution on cotton and linen.

Rinse again with clear water. Dry thoroughly. (If the color of the fabric has been changed, it may possibly be restored by sponging (the method of using light strokes with a dampened pad working outward from the center of the stain) lightly with a solution of 2 parts water and 1 part ammonia.) Caution: Never iron material with a deodorant stain. The combination of chemical and heat interaction will ruin most fabrics.

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Acrylic Fabric, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Spandex

Most deodorant stains can be removed by pretreating (the method of applying a stain-removing agent directly to the stained area before laundering) with a liquid detergent or prespotter such as Shout Liquid Laundry Stain Remover and launder as usual. If the stain doesnt seem to be loosening with the pretreatment, rinse out the detergent and flush with white vinegar. Rinse in clear water. If the stain remains, flush the area with denatured alcohol. Rinse with clear water and dry or launder as usual.

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Acrylic Plastic, Aluminum, Asphalt, Bamboo, Brass, Bronze, Cane, Ceramic, Glass/Tile, Chromium, Cork, Enamel, Glass, Gold, Grout, lron, Linoleum, Marble, Masonry Tile, Paint/Flat, Paint/Gloss, Plexiglas, Polyurethane, Stainless Steel, Tin, Vinyl Clothing, Vinyl Tile, Vinyl Wallcovering

Wipe the area with a cloth dipped in warm sudsy water. Rinse well and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Leather, Suede

Mix a solution of mild soap in lukewarm water. Swish to create a great volume of suds. Apply only the foam with a sponge. Wipe dry with a clean cloth. On leather only, follow with Tannery Vintage Leather Cleaner & Conditioner or Fiebing’s Saddle Soap to condition the leather.

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Wallpaper

Carefully wipe the wallpaper with a sponge dampened with clear warm water. Do this immediately after staining the wallpaper, as deodorants can permanently stain the paper. Strokes should be overlapped to prevent streaking. Gently pat dry with a clean cloth.

Remove Deodorant Stains From:
Wood

Wipe spills or deodorant-sprayed area as soon as possible with a sponge or soft cloth dipped in mild sudsy water. Wipe dry and apply wax or polish as needed.

Popularity: 29% [?]

If you want to avoid splitting headaches, a stomach in agony and furry mouth “the day after” read on.

During special holidays, social gatherings induce excessive consumption of alcoholic beverages. Overindulging results in unfortunate behaviour, which may cause embarrassing situations, discomfort, accidents of all sorts and terrible hangovers.

Hangovers existed the following day after humans started to consume alcohol. For most people moderation comes naturally, but some cannot control their urge to eat certain foods, others alcoholic beverages. Some nations tolerate alcohol more than others.

Alcohol is an intoxicating and habit-forming beverage with particular characteristics in that if consumed in moderation (approximately 250 ml of wine, red wine in particular, or 60 ml of spirits at 40 percent ABV or two standard bottles of beer) it is beneficial to health; any amount over that and over time causes health problems. One of the major and incurable diseases it causes is the damage to the liver (cirrhosis), but on the other hand, when a hangover subsides the body recovers relatively quickly providing a false belief that repeated excess consumption would cause only temporary discomfort. Such is, unfortunately, not the case.

Each excess drinking occurrence leaves its mark on the body. Alcohol occurs naturally even in the blood of tee totals. It is an organic colourless liquid consisting of oxygen, carbon and hydrogen atoms, which combined. Create a range of alcohols, the lowest quality of which is methyl alcohol, unfit for human consumption. Ethyl alcohol is purer than methyl alcohol and generally consumed. Higher alcohols serve industrial purposes.

Alcohol is obtained by fermentation of sugar containing liquids by means of yeasts and concentrated by distillation. Alcohol consumed on an empty stomach enters the small intestines within minutes and is absorbed into the blood stream.

Alcohol is diuretic and causes excessive urination dehydrating the body. This is also the cause of splitting headaches the following day. The brain tries to expand to fill the gap that the diminished water in the cranium creates.

Avoid Hangovers..

The best way of preventing hangovers is to control your alcohol consumption and restrict it to one standard drink per hour to give your liver a chance to break down the alcohol. (A healthy liver breaks down seven grams of pure alcohol per hour). Drink plenty of plain water between drinks. Avoid mixing sweet drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic). Stick to dry wines, enjoy spirits on their own, and consume carbonated beverages in moderation.

The body has built in barriers to prevent excessive alcoholic consumption. Alcohol, particularly high-octane (proof) spirits, burns your throat and reminds you to go slow or stop, but people by-pass this mechanism by taking drinks on the rocks or mixing them with sweet fruit juices or soft drinks and often combine both in cocktails. Widely circulated conventional remedies generally fail to have desired results fast enough. Time is essentially the only element that cures a hangover; everything else may soothe the symptoms, but never cure the cause.

Some suggest a stiff ‘Bloody Mary’, but conveniently forget that you are prolonging your misery. Some suggest fried eggs and consommé, which help settle your upset stomach, if you can eat at all, but will not combat the other effects. Coffee has never helped an inebriated person, and should be avoided at all cost since it is also a diuretic and helps expel water.

Be aware that drinking beer first and then switching to spirits will render you inebriated faster than when you reverse the order. Avoid mixing drinks is a better idea, but if you must mix, then start with spirits and then go to beer.

Remember to enjoy alcohol in moderation and NEVER DRINK AND DRIVE!

Popularity: 32% [?]

Beer making dates back to 5,000 BC when yeast was discovered fermenting in a sugar-water mixture. The yeast consumes the sugar for its own energy and growth, and the primary byproducts are ethyl alcohol and carbon dioxide. Wine is made when yeast consumes the natural sugars in fruit such as grapes, and beer is made when yeast consumes the sugar derived from grain. The naturally occurring starch found in grain must be converted into sugar before yeast can consume it. Thus, beer making is a more complex art than wine making.Making beer can be broken down into two separate processes — malting and brewing — usually performed by two separate businesses. Malting is the processing and preparation of grains for brewing and takes years of training and experience to master. Malting begins by soaking grain, usually barley, in water long enough to begin germination or sprouting. At the same time, enzymes are developing which break down starches to sugars. The grain is then heated in a large oven, called a kiln, which arrests germination and stops the growth of the grain. Other grains, such as wheat, rye, and oats can be malted, and many maltsters sell malted wheat which is commonly used in several specialty styles of beer.

Most homebrewers do not make their own malt because it takes one to two weeks, requires close monitoring and much work, and frequently renders inconsistent results. The two most common methods of malting are the traditional floor malting method, where grain is literally spread across the floor to germinate, and pneumatic malting, most common today, where the environment is strictly controlled inside tanks or drums. Maltsters can malt grains for a wide variety of different types of malt, each offering a different flavor and character.

Beer has four main ingredients — malt, water, yeast, and hops — and it can be as simple or technically challenging to brew, as down home cooking is compared to gourmet cuisine. Each ingredient has its own equally important role to play in the production of beer.

To brew beer, the brewer begins by weighing the appropriate amount of grain for his recipe. He then mills his malt in a malt mill which cracks his grain. In commercial operations, the milled malt drops into a grist case which has a valve at the bottom which allows the grain to drop through a chute into the mash tun. Usually homebrewers simply collect their milled grain in a clean container and dump it into their mash tun. The mash tun is a large vessel, usually made of copper or stainless steel, that has a screen-like false bottom for straining your mash later.

Mash is a thin mixture of grains and hot water. Mashing is the process of heating grains mixed with water at controlled temperatures for designated periods of time to activate enzyme activity that converts starches to fermentable sugars. Converting starches to sugars is called saccharification. There are three common mashing methods. Infusion mashing is the simplest because it involves only one temperature throughout the mashing process. Step infusion mashing is basically infusion mashing with one or two temperature increases during mashing. And decoction mashing, most commonly used for lager style beers, is the most complex method because part of the mash is removed and boiled, then reintroduced.

Once mashing is completed, the brewer must separate the sugar-water, called wort, from the spent grain husks. He does this by sparging or rinsing the spent grains with hot water to extract as much sugar from the grains as possible. The grain husks act as a filter bed on the false bottom of the mash tun. Commercial brewers usually do their sparging in a lauter tun. After the wort is collected in the brew kettle, it is boiled for one to two hours.

The boil is a critical step in the brewing process because it is at this step that hops, the aromatic flowers of hop vines, are added. Hops impart aroma, flavor, and bitterness to beer, which balances the sweetness of the wort. To extract the bitter resins from hops they must be boiled, and usually hops are added at various stages of the boil to extract bitterness or impart aroma or flavor.

When the boil is completed, the hot wort is transferred to a heat exchanger or wort chiller which rapidly drops the temperature of the wort to about 80 degrees — fermentation temperature. As the tepid wort exits the wort chiller, it goes into a fermenter where yeast is added. Most homebrewers us a large glass called a carboy or stainless steel kegs for fermenting, but commercial brewers use huge stainless steel cylindrical conical tanks for fermenting.

The main genus of yeast used by brewers is Saccharomyces, and the species used to make ales is a top fermenting strain called cerevisiae, while the species used to make lagers is a bottom fermenting strain called uvarum. The type of yeast used during fermentation determines whether a beer is an ale or a lager.

The yeast sets to work eating the malt sugar and expelling alcohol and carbon dioxide. This usually takes three to seven days and is referred to as primary fermentation. Homebrewers then rack or transfer the beer off of the yeast bed and into a secondary fermentation vessel, whereas commercial brewers drain the yeast that has collected out of the bottom of the tank.

If lagering, the beer may remain in cold storage for several weeks or for a shorter period and in warmer temperatures if brewing an ale. During the secondary fermentation, the yeast precipitates out of suspension, carbonation develops, and the beer matures.

Finally, the homebrewer is ready to bottle or keg his beer for serving, while the commercial brewer may filter the beer to make it bright and clear before kegging, bottling, or transferring it into a serving tank. Homebrewing is one of the fastest growing hobbies. If you can follow a recipe, you too can brew.

Popularity: 20% [?]